As you can see, I've made some changes to my formatting. I have trying to do a three column layout but can never seem to get the whole layout the way I want it. Why does it have to be so hard? And why do the online tutorials differ so much on how to do things? Two tutorials, telling how to do the exact same thing, but one gives me error messages galore while the other one works.
I think the problem I have with these tutorials is that they simply tell you to change this or edit that, copy this, paste that, but they never tell you what you're really doing in making those changes. If I knew which items to change in order to get specific effects, it would allow me to figure the rest out. No such luck though. I have to keep trying.
In the meantime, if anyone knows how to add a third column to my page-- an additional sidebar on the left hand side-- please let me know. I want to keep the width I have for the total page.
Sewing, Cooking, Painting, DIY, Tutorials, Lessons.
For information on classes and lessons, please email me.
Maureen@maureenmakesit.com
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Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Monday, March 23, 2009
Pillowcase instructions with photos
I'm reposting the pillowcase instructions I previously posted so I can insert pictures of the steps at various points in the instructions.
We started with 3/4 yard of your main fabric and 1/3 yard of your contrasting fabric for the band. These should both be 44" or 45" width cuts of fabric. Make sure both pieces are the same width by folding them in half so that the selvages meet. Stack them on top of each other. Trim to make even if necessary. Remember, unless otherwise indicated all seams are 5/8" from the edge. For this project, we used a straight stitch with the length set to 2-3, the width set to 0. We also used a zigzag stitch with the width set to 3 and the length still at 2-3. Everyone's tension setting was at about 3 or 4.
Beginning with the contrast/band, right sides together, sew a seam down the short side of the band, creating a ring.
Fold the ring in half, wrong sides together (right side out). Pin in place and sew a 1/2" seam around the entire cut edge. Set aside.

With main fabric, right sides together and folded so selvages meet, pin then sew seam down selvage side of fabric plus one of the short sides, leaving one end open. Now sew a zigzag stitch in the seam allowance (the space between the edge of your fabric and the seam) and sew it close to the stitch you already made. Trim the excess seam allowance right to the tips of your zig zag stitches but be careful not to cut the tips off. Cut a diagonal snip off of the sewn corners but do not cut through the stitching where the corners meet.
(We did not do the pressing in class, but I'm including it). Fold those seams to the side and press them down. Turn case right side out. Use your scissors or a point turner to push the corners out.
Now, holding your pillowcase with the open edge up, take the band with the seam side up and slide it over the top of the pillowcase, matching the side seams and fabric edges. Pin band to pillowcase. (Here are three images to show this.)

Sew a 5/8" seam which will be just to the left of the first seam.


Trim about 1/4" of the fabric that is in the seam allowance. Now turn the seam allowance down so that it faces into the pillowcase and press it. Turn band up and you're finished.
We started with 3/4 yard of your main fabric and 1/3 yard of your contrasting fabric for the band. These should both be 44" or 45" width cuts of fabric. Make sure both pieces are the same width by folding them in half so that the selvages meet. Stack them on top of each other. Trim to make even if necessary. Remember, unless otherwise indicated all seams are 5/8" from the edge. For this project, we used a straight stitch with the length set to 2-3, the width set to 0. We also used a zigzag stitch with the width set to 3 and the length still at 2-3. Everyone's tension setting was at about 3 or 4.
Beginning with the contrast/band, right sides together, sew a seam down the short side of the band, creating a ring.
Fold the ring in half, wrong sides together (right side out). Pin in place and sew a 1/2" seam around the entire cut edge. Set aside.
With main fabric, right sides together and folded so selvages meet, pin then sew seam down selvage side of fabric plus one of the short sides, leaving one end open. Now sew a zigzag stitch in the seam allowance (the space between the edge of your fabric and the seam) and sew it close to the stitch you already made. Trim the excess seam allowance right to the tips of your zig zag stitches but be careful not to cut the tips off. Cut a diagonal snip off of the sewn corners but do not cut through the stitching where the corners meet.
(We did not do the pressing in class, but I'm including it). Fold those seams to the side and press them down. Turn case right side out. Use your scissors or a point turner to push the corners out.
Now, holding your pillowcase with the open edge up, take the band with the seam side up and slide it over the top of the pillowcase, matching the side seams and fabric edges. Pin band to pillowcase. (Here are three images to show this.)
Trim about 1/4" of the fabric that is in the seam allowance. Now turn the seam allowance down so that it faces into the pillowcase and press it. Turn band up and you're finished.
Making lounge pants, shorts, capris, baby shorts, pj's
In the Sewing 201 (or is it 202?) class to make the lounge/pajama pants, as well as my private class on making baby shorts, we saw that it's not always easy to figure out what you're supposed to do, simply from the pattern instructions. I have some photos here that were taken in the baby shorts class which demonstrate the techniques to be used. As I've mentioned in the class at JoAnn's, the easy patterns frequently do not include some more advanced garment-making techniques like finishing seams. These photos include these techniques but it's up to you whether or not you do them. I recommend them for a nicer finish and a more professional looking garment.
In this first photo, we see the two legs with the outside seams as well as the inside seams sewn. We also see that the seam is finished with one of the finishing stitches built in to the sewing machine (you could just zig zag or use one of your overedge stitches.) Now, look at the leg on the left. You'll see that, once the seam is finished, we trim the fabric to the tips of the zig zags,or as close as possible to the finishing stitches.

Here's a close up view of the stitching and finishing so you can see it better. You could just sew the straight stitch, which is what the pattern instructions call for in the lounge pants class. But you can see how much nicer this finish is.


After sewing the inner and outer leg seams, turn one leg right side out (wrong sides together). Then put that leg inside the other one. (More correctly stated, put one leg inside the other, right sides together.)
Here you can see what you should have when you put one leg inside the other, right sides together. Now, match notches and pin all the way around, creating a "U."

Sew and finish seam as shown above.

Turn garment right side out.

Now, for waistband and hems, fold over 1 1/4" and press. Then fold over 1/4" and press. Stitch all the way around, as close to the folded 1/4" edge as possible. For waistband casing, remember to sew all but about 2 inches closed. Use bodkin or safety pin and guide elastic (measured to waist size)through casing. Sew ends of elastic together and sew remaining casing closed. (These measurements are for using 3/4" wide elastic. Adjust 1" measurement proportionately for thicker or thinner elastic.)

Questions or comments? Leave them here so we can discuss them. Happy sewing!
In this first photo, we see the two legs with the outside seams as well as the inside seams sewn. We also see that the seam is finished with one of the finishing stitches built in to the sewing machine (you could just zig zag or use one of your overedge stitches.) Now, look at the leg on the left. You'll see that, once the seam is finished, we trim the fabric to the tips of the zig zags,or as close as possible to the finishing stitches.
Here's a close up view of the stitching and finishing so you can see it better. You could just sew the straight stitch, which is what the pattern instructions call for in the lounge pants class. But you can see how much nicer this finish is.


After sewing the inner and outer leg seams, turn one leg right side out (wrong sides together). Then put that leg inside the other one. (More correctly stated, put one leg inside the other, right sides together.)
Here you can see what you should have when you put one leg inside the other, right sides together. Now, match notches and pin all the way around, creating a "U."
Sew and finish seam as shown above.
Turn garment right side out.
Now, for waistband and hems, fold over 1 1/4" and press. Then fold over 1/4" and press. Stitch all the way around, as close to the folded 1/4" edge as possible. For waistband casing, remember to sew all but about 2 inches closed. Use bodkin or safety pin and guide elastic (measured to waist size)through casing. Sew ends of elastic together and sew remaining casing closed. (These measurements are for using 3/4" wide elastic. Adjust 1" measurement proportionately for thicker or thinner elastic.)

Questions or comments? Leave them here so we can discuss them. Happy sewing!
Monday, March 16, 2009
Sewing Classes - March (JoAnn's)
With two weeks left in the month, there are still plenty of class opportunities available. Be sure to check out the kids classes too. Here's a link to the Feb/Mar schedule of all classes, not just sewing and painting. I am not sure if I'm posting it as a link, but you can just copy and paste it into your browser.
http://www.joann.com/static/education/classes/current_2152.pdf
Happy Monday everyone. Have a great week.
http://www.joann.com/static/education/classes/current_2152.pdf
Happy Monday everyone. Have a great week.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Upcoming classes
Today was open house at Joann's but the weather was so awful-- cold and rainy-- that there weren't very many people. I don't think I did myself much good as far as signing people up for upcoming classes, although I did have an opportunity to at least talk to some people about them. I have some really cute things to make for the fabric sewing and flip flop class and, wouldn't you know, I turned in my samples today but forgot to take pictures. I'll have to go to the store and take pics and then I'll post them. Quite a few stopped to check out the visors and tote bag I painted and embellished with lots of Swarovski crystals.
I have a sewing 202 class coming up on the 23rd that could use a few more people if anyone's interested. It's a day time class to make the lounge pants. Once you make one pair of these, you'll be making them all the time. The pattern and design are so versatile. They can be pajama pants, yoga pants, just comfy elastic waist pants, or even capris. You can shorten them and they're shorts. And once you learn how to make them, you'll have the skills to make elastic or drawstring pants, shorts, capris, trunks and all kinds of similar garments in all sizes for men, women, and children.
I have a sewing 202 class coming up on the 23rd that could use a few more people if anyone's interested. It's a day time class to make the lounge pants. Once you make one pair of these, you'll be making them all the time. The pattern and design are so versatile. They can be pajama pants, yoga pants, just comfy elastic waist pants, or even capris. You can shorten them and they're shorts. And once you learn how to make them, you'll have the skills to make elastic or drawstring pants, shorts, capris, trunks and all kinds of similar garments in all sizes for men, women, and children.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
I'll be gone a couple of days
I'll be back Tuesday, though, and I have some terrific pictures I'll be posting from my classes today. Be sure to come back next week. I have pics of the steps of making the pillowcase, and some toddler shorts which are just like the pj pants some of you have made in class. Stay tuned!
Friday, March 6, 2009
Sewing Classes - April/May - Joann's.
I don't know when Joann's will officially be putting out the April and May schedules, but here's what will be on it when it comes out.
Sewing 101 - The basics; Project: pillowcase
Sat 4/4 1:00-3:30
Wed 4/8 12:30-3:00
Wed 4/8 6:00-8:30
Sat 5/2 1:00-3:30
Wed 5/6 12:30-3:00
Wed 5/6 6:00-8:30
Sewing 201 - Learning to read patterns; Project: apron
Sat 4/11 1:00-4:00
Wed 4/14 1:00-4:00
Wed 4/14 6:00-9:00
Sat 5/09 1:00-4:00
Wed 5/13 1:00-4:00
Wed 5/14 6:00-9:00
Sewing 301 (2 part class) - Advanced sewing techniques; Project: Tunic top and Capris
Wed & Thurs 4/1 and 4/2 10:00 - 1:00
Wed & Thurs 4/29 and 4/30 6:00-9:00
Thurs & Fri 4/30 and 5/1 10:00-1:00
Wed & Thurs 5/27 and 5/28 6:00-9:00
There are also numerous kids and teens classes from beginners to advanced. There are also classes to help get ready for prom. One of the prom classes will make a dressy evening clutch bag that is suitable for many occasions besides prom. Adults might be interested in this class also. Please let me know if you're interested in any of these or if you'd like me to post the shedules for them as well.
In addition to my usual painting and sewing classes, I'll also be teaching two other adult classes that will be new for April and May. One is making embellished flip flops and the other is fabric painting. These are really cute projects that are unbelievably easy and fun. Let me know if you're interested in these schedules also.
Please feel free to leave your questions or comments right here, or to email me at maureen@maureenmakesit.com or any other email address you migh already have for me. I hope to see you again soon!
Sewing 101 - The basics; Project: pillowcase
Sat 4/4 1:00-3:30
Wed 4/8 12:30-3:00
Wed 4/8 6:00-8:30
Sat 5/2 1:00-3:30
Wed 5/6 12:30-3:00
Wed 5/6 6:00-8:30
Sewing 201 - Learning to read patterns; Project: apron
Sat 4/11 1:00-4:00
Wed 4/14 1:00-4:00
Wed 4/14 6:00-9:00
Sat 5/09 1:00-4:00
Wed 5/13 1:00-4:00
Wed 5/14 6:00-9:00
Sewing 301 (2 part class) - Advanced sewing techniques; Project: Tunic top and Capris
Wed & Thurs 4/1 and 4/2 10:00 - 1:00
Wed & Thurs 4/29 and 4/30 6:00-9:00
Thurs & Fri 4/30 and 5/1 10:00-1:00
Wed & Thurs 5/27 and 5/28 6:00-9:00
There are also numerous kids and teens classes from beginners to advanced. There are also classes to help get ready for prom. One of the prom classes will make a dressy evening clutch bag that is suitable for many occasions besides prom. Adults might be interested in this class also. Please let me know if you're interested in any of these or if you'd like me to post the shedules for them as well.
In addition to my usual painting and sewing classes, I'll also be teaching two other adult classes that will be new for April and May. One is making embellished flip flops and the other is fabric painting. These are really cute projects that are unbelievably easy and fun. Let me know if you're interested in these schedules also.
Please feel free to leave your questions or comments right here, or to email me at maureen@maureenmakesit.com or any other email address you migh already have for me. I hope to see you again soon!
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Pillowcase instructions
A student asked me to provide the instructions for the pillowcase we made in the 101 class. Here they are.
We started with 3/4 yard of your main fabric and 1/3 yard of your contrasting fabric for the band. These should both be 44" or 45" width cuts of fabric. Make sure both pieces are the same width by folding them in half so that the selvages meet. Stack them on top of each other. Trim to make even if necessary. Remember, unless otherwise indicated all seams are 5/8" from the edge. For this project, we used a straight stitch with the length set to 2-3, the width set to 0. We also used a zigzag stitch with the width set to 3 and the length still at 2-3. Everyone's tension setting was at about 3 or 4.
Beginning with the contrast/band, right sides together, sew a seam down the short side of the band, creating a ring. Fold the ring in half, wrong sides together (right side out). Pin in place and sew a 1/2" seam around the entire cut edge. Set aside.
With main fabric, right sides together and folded so selvages meet, pin then sew seam down selvage side of fabric plus one of the short sides, leaving one end open. Now sew a zigzag stitch in the seam allowance (the space between the edge of your fabric and the seam) and sew it close to the stitch you already made. Trim the excess seam allowance right to the tips of your zig zag stitches but be careful not to cut the tips off. Cut a diagonal snip off of the sewn corners but do not cut through the stitching where the corners meet.
(We did not do the pressing in class, but I'm including it). Fold those seams to the side and press them down. Turn case right side out. Use your scissors or a point turner to push the corners out. Now, holding your pillowcase with the open edge up, take the band with the seam side up and slide it over the top of the pillowcase, matching the side seams and fabric edges. Pin band to pillowcase. Sew a 5/8" seam which will be just to the left of the first seam. Trim about 1/4" of the fabric that is in the seam allowance. Now turn the seam allowance down so that it faces into the pillowcase and press it. Turn band up and you're finished.
We started with 3/4 yard of your main fabric and 1/3 yard of your contrasting fabric for the band. These should both be 44" or 45" width cuts of fabric. Make sure both pieces are the same width by folding them in half so that the selvages meet. Stack them on top of each other. Trim to make even if necessary. Remember, unless otherwise indicated all seams are 5/8" from the edge. For this project, we used a straight stitch with the length set to 2-3, the width set to 0. We also used a zigzag stitch with the width set to 3 and the length still at 2-3. Everyone's tension setting was at about 3 or 4.
Beginning with the contrast/band, right sides together, sew a seam down the short side of the band, creating a ring. Fold the ring in half, wrong sides together (right side out). Pin in place and sew a 1/2" seam around the entire cut edge. Set aside.
With main fabric, right sides together and folded so selvages meet, pin then sew seam down selvage side of fabric plus one of the short sides, leaving one end open. Now sew a zigzag stitch in the seam allowance (the space between the edge of your fabric and the seam) and sew it close to the stitch you already made. Trim the excess seam allowance right to the tips of your zig zag stitches but be careful not to cut the tips off. Cut a diagonal snip off of the sewn corners but do not cut through the stitching where the corners meet.
(We did not do the pressing in class, but I'm including it). Fold those seams to the side and press them down. Turn case right side out. Use your scissors or a point turner to push the corners out. Now, holding your pillowcase with the open edge up, take the band with the seam side up and slide it over the top of the pillowcase, matching the side seams and fabric edges. Pin band to pillowcase. Sew a 5/8" seam which will be just to the left of the first seam. Trim about 1/4" of the fabric that is in the seam allowance. Now turn the seam allowance down so that it faces into the pillowcase and press it. Turn band up and you're finished.
Before you begin to sew-- a few steps
Now that you've purchased your pattern, fabrics, and notions, you're almost ready to start. Fabrics should always be pre-washed before sewing. Wash it as you intend to wash your finished garment. This ensures than and shrinking that might occur, does so before you've made your garment, resulting in a garment that will not shrink on you. After washing and drying, iron your fabric. When folding, fold with wrong sides together, selvages together.
The first time you use a pattern, you'll have to cut out the pieces you are going to need. You can cut out all of the pattern pieces that are included in your envelope or just cut out the ones you need for your garment.
By now, you've already decided what you are going to make. Take the instructions out of your envelope. One of the first things you'll see is a print of all the fabric pieces. They are identified either by number or letter and may also be identified by which garment view (A, B, C etc.) will use that piece. Identify the pieces you will be using and cut them out, leaving the other pieces intact. Or simply cut out all the pieces. It's OK to leave a bit of a border between the fabric outline and where you are cutting.
Now you're ready to get started! If you prewash and press your fabrics, and cut out your pattern pieces before class, it will save a lot of time.
The first time you use a pattern, you'll have to cut out the pieces you are going to need. You can cut out all of the pattern pieces that are included in your envelope or just cut out the ones you need for your garment.
By now, you've already decided what you are going to make. Take the instructions out of your envelope. One of the first things you'll see is a print of all the fabric pieces. They are identified either by number or letter and may also be identified by which garment view (A, B, C etc.) will use that piece. Identify the pieces you will be using and cut them out, leaving the other pieces intact. Or simply cut out all the pieces. It's OK to leave a bit of a border between the fabric outline and where you are cutting.
Now you're ready to get started! If you prewash and press your fabrics, and cut out your pattern pieces before class, it will save a lot of time.
TIP: Having trouble getting those pattern pieces back in the envelope? Iron them flat then fold; or fold and then press flat.
Reading the pattern envelope to buy what you need
Once you've chosen your pattern, you'll want to make sure you have everything you need to make that item. If you're not familiar with reading patterns, this can be difficult to do.
Look at the top of the pattern back. The print is pretty small so you have to look very closely at all of these things. You will see notions listed. This will include thread and perhaps some other items. You'll need to buy these items, but choose your fabric first so your notions match or complement your fabric. You will also see a description of the types of fabrics that are suitable for your project, and sometimes a list of fabrics that are not suitable.
The pattern will tell you how much fabric you need. Find your size on the back of the envelope, decide which garment you are making from the pattern, and look to see how much fabric you need on the chart. In the section that gives the fabric amounts for the garment you've chosen, you might also see yardages listed for contrast fabrics, interfacing, zippers, trims, or other things. Be sure to buy these, too, in the amounts or sizes indicated.
You may remember from your Sewing 101 class, if you are using fabric that is going to require you to match prints or plaids, you will want to choose the fabric layout for "with nap." When choosing prints, don't forget to determine if the print is a one way print or not. One way prints are those which can only go in one direction.
Look at the top of the pattern back. The print is pretty small so you have to look very closely at all of these things. You will see notions listed. This will include thread and perhaps some other items. You'll need to buy these items, but choose your fabric first so your notions match or complement your fabric. You will also see a description of the types of fabrics that are suitable for your project, and sometimes a list of fabrics that are not suitable.
The pattern will tell you how much fabric you need. Find your size on the back of the envelope, decide which garment you are making from the pattern, and look to see how much fabric you need on the chart. In the section that gives the fabric amounts for the garment you've chosen, you might also see yardages listed for contrast fabrics, interfacing, zippers, trims, or other things. Be sure to buy these, too, in the amounts or sizes indicated.
You may remember from your Sewing 101 class, if you are using fabric that is going to require you to match prints or plaids, you will want to choose the fabric layout for "with nap." When choosing prints, don't forget to determine if the print is a one way print or not. One way prints are those which can only go in one direction.
How to buy a pattern-- things you should know
Before you head and and buy a pattern, there are some important things you should know. Pattern sizing is not necessarily the same as ready to wear sizing. To ensure a proper fit of your finished garment, you'll need to take your basic measurements-- bust, waist, hips. The good news is that no matter what pattern you use, no matter what brand of pattern, they all follow the same measurement/ size formula. Unlike ready to wear clothing where you might wear one size in one brand but another in another brand, a size is a size when it comes to patterns.
You will find that most patterns come multi-sized, like 8-10-12, allowing several sizes to be made from the same pattern. This is also helpful in making alterations. Choose the pattern that includes ranges that include your measurements.
You should choose patterns that are suitable to your sewing experience. As you are starting out, look for easy to sew patterns. These will be less likely to include more difficult features like pleats and collars. The back of the pattern envelope tells you how many pattern pieces it includes. Remember, the fewer the pieces, the easier the pattern.
Look through the pattern books at the fabric store to find the pattern you like. Let your creativity shine when doing so. Envision the garments in colors, prints, or designs other than what is pictured. Look at style and construction rather than fabrics used in the pattern photos.
Once you find the pattern you like, look for it in the big pattern drawers where patterns are filed by pattern number. The different brands will be in different drawers. If you want Simplicity pattern 3699, go to the Simplicity drawers, then look for the drawer that includes 3699. Once you find the tab where your pattern is, be sure you pull out the correct size. All sizes for a particular pattern number will be filed in the same slot.
You will find that most patterns come multi-sized, like 8-10-12, allowing several sizes to be made from the same pattern. This is also helpful in making alterations. Choose the pattern that includes ranges that include your measurements.
You should choose patterns that are suitable to your sewing experience. As you are starting out, look for easy to sew patterns. These will be less likely to include more difficult features like pleats and collars. The back of the pattern envelope tells you how many pattern pieces it includes. Remember, the fewer the pieces, the easier the pattern.
Look through the pattern books at the fabric store to find the pattern you like. Let your creativity shine when doing so. Envision the garments in colors, prints, or designs other than what is pictured. Look at style and construction rather than fabrics used in the pattern photos.
Once you find the pattern you like, look for it in the big pattern drawers where patterns are filed by pattern number. The different brands will be in different drawers. If you want Simplicity pattern 3699, go to the Simplicity drawers, then look for the drawer that includes 3699. Once you find the tab where your pattern is, be sure you pull out the correct size. All sizes for a particular pattern number will be filed in the same slot.
TIP: Never pay full price for a pattern. They're almost always on sale somehwere, sometimes for as little as $1. Hobby Lobby and Joann's sell certain pattern brands at 40% off every day.
Private Sewing Classes
In response to so many inquiries I've received, I've been scheduling private sewing classes. There is a minimum of two students and I'm trying to keep the maximum to four students. Currently, I have openings tomorrow, March 7. The class is from 10:00-12:30 and we will be making elastic waist childrens' shorts. On Saturday, March 14, from 12:30 - 3:30 we will be making skirts. I am also having an apron class and will post that date/time later. The price for these classes is $35 each.
In all classes, students may pick their own patterns and may make different garments. There have been requests for workshops where everyone works on what they want and simply gets guidance where they need it. I will be adding those to the schedule also.
Other classes that have been suggested include dresses, tote bags, purses, childrens clothing, womens tops. If you are interested in the workshops, would like to suggest classes, or are interested in any of the current classes, please let me know. I want to tailor this to you. Feel free to comment below or you can email me: maureen@maureenmakesit.com.
In all classes, students may pick their own patterns and may make different garments. There have been requests for workshops where everyone works on what they want and simply gets guidance where they need it. I will be adding those to the schedule also.
Other classes that have been suggested include dresses, tote bags, purses, childrens clothing, womens tops. If you are interested in the workshops, would like to suggest classes, or are interested in any of the current classes, please let me know. I want to tailor this to you. Feel free to comment below or you can email me: maureen@maureenmakesit.com.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Irish Soda Bread Recipe
With St. Patrick's Day only two weeks away, I find myself switching into full blown all-things-Irish mode. It's time to dust off the soda bread recipe that has delighted me my entire life, as it passed from my Dublin-born grandmother (and presumably her mother before her), to my mother, to me.
Soda bread is often eaten with jam or jelly so it's not all that necessary that the bread itself be very sweet. I like mine sweet, though, so I add 1/2 cup of sugar, rather than the 4 TBS, a change which is not reflected in the recipe below. My grandmother used to cook her soda bread in a greased cast iron skillet in the oven. My mother made it on a cookie sheet and so do I. My grandmother always used raisins. My mother used either raisins or currants. I prefer golden raisins, or a mix of golden raisins and currants. My siblings and I all love soda bread. Unfortunately, my kids don't seem to care for it all.
Soda Bread-- makes 2 loaves
6 Tablespoons margarine or butter
5 cups flour
4 Tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup currants or raisins
1 teaspoon caraway seed
1 1/4 cups buttermilk
1 beaten egg
Cut margarine/butter into flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in raisins/currants, egg and buttermilk to make a soft dough.
Turn onto lightly floured surface and knead until smooth (one to two minutes). Shape into round loaves, about 6 1/2" in diameter. Place onto greased cookie sheet (or into greased cast iron skillet). Using a sharp, floured knife, cut a large X into the top of the loaf, going about 1/4 of the way through the loaf with the slices.
As an option, which I highly recommend, brush the top of the loaves with a little melted butter/margarine and sprinkle about a teaspoon of sugar over the top of the loaf. It gives it a nice finished appearance.
Bake in 375 degree oven until golden brown, about 35-45 minutes.
Now, make yourself a cup of tea, and slather the hot soda bread with butter and jam and you will have yourself a little taste of heaven. Enjoy!
Soda bread is often eaten with jam or jelly so it's not all that necessary that the bread itself be very sweet. I like mine sweet, though, so I add 1/2 cup of sugar, rather than the 4 TBS, a change which is not reflected in the recipe below. My grandmother used to cook her soda bread in a greased cast iron skillet in the oven. My mother made it on a cookie sheet and so do I. My grandmother always used raisins. My mother used either raisins or currants. I prefer golden raisins, or a mix of golden raisins and currants. My siblings and I all love soda bread. Unfortunately, my kids don't seem to care for it all.
Soda Bread-- makes 2 loaves
6 Tablespoons margarine or butter
5 cups flour
4 Tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup currants or raisins
1 teaspoon caraway seed
1 1/4 cups buttermilk
1 beaten egg
Cut margarine/butter into flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in raisins/currants, egg and buttermilk to make a soft dough.
Turn onto lightly floured surface and knead until smooth (one to two minutes). Shape into round loaves, about 6 1/2" in diameter. Place onto greased cookie sheet (or into greased cast iron skillet). Using a sharp, floured knife, cut a large X into the top of the loaf, going about 1/4 of the way through the loaf with the slices.
As an option, which I highly recommend, brush the top of the loaves with a little melted butter/margarine and sprinkle about a teaspoon of sugar over the top of the loaf. It gives it a nice finished appearance.
Bake in 375 degree oven until golden brown, about 35-45 minutes.
Now, make yourself a cup of tea, and slather the hot soda bread with butter and jam and you will have yourself a little taste of heaven. Enjoy!
Monday, March 2, 2009
Branching out
I am happy to report that, in addition to teaching at JoAnn's, I am now teaching sewing classes on my own also. I've had quite a few people who have asked me for private lessons, so I am doing them. I think this is going to be great for people who have specific projects in mind. It's hard when you can only go someplace and work on the projects they've defined. So this is something that you can't really find in my neck of the woods-- sewing lessons that teach you how to sew the things you want to sew.
I'm also going to start posting some tips, pictures and tutorials for past, present and future students so you can all have a reference when you need it.
I'm also going to start posting some tips, pictures and tutorials for past, present and future students so you can all have a reference when you need it.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Creative whilrwind
I've been doing a lot of sewing. I just have to take photos so I can post. I've made two cute dresses for my girls and three new aprons. I'm especially excited about the one I made for my friend Nari. I won't talk too much about it until I post it. It has some new features I've been wanting to add but hadn't figured out the method I wanted to use. Now I'm good to go. I have so many things lined up to be made right now. I have some childrens' dresses to be made as well as a dress for myself and a purse. I think I'll start on the purse next, then the childrens' dresses. I have to squeeze in some painting time too. I have some new ideas for my wine glasses. So much creative energy, so little time!
I told my husband, I wish I was an octopus so I'd have more hands, and I wish I didn't need sleep because then I could really get so much more done. I count my blessings, though. I am lucky to have so many fun projects to do that I enjoy so much.
I told my husband, I wish I was an octopus so I'd have more hands, and I wish I didn't need sleep because then I could really get so much more done. I count my blessings, though. I am lucky to have so many fun projects to do that I enjoy so much.
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